GUIDED ALPINE ROCK CLIMBING IN THE CASCADES
Just west of the tiny town of Mazama, along highway 20 lies some of the best alpine rock climbing in the west. Golden and silver granite spires soar above the highway. Easy access, beautiful alpine meadows and an abundance of super high quality rock make Washington Pass a climbers dream. Oh, and the bakery at the Mazama Store offers some of the best pastries in the state!
There are tons of options for climbers at every level. Below is a list of some of the more classic climbs sorted by difficulty. Let us know what your experience level is and we can suggest the perfect climb for you!
All guides are AMGA Certified Rock Guides.
Best Season
May - October
Rates
Rates are based off of a ratio of the number of climbers to the number of guides. For multi-pitch climbs, the highest ratio that we work at is 2:1. Ratios 3:1 and higher are only available for single pitch climbing. The overnight rate below only refers to trips with nights spent in the backcountry. Prices are per person per day
Day Trips:
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1:1 $495/day
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2:1 $295/day
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3:1 $235/day
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4:1 $210/day
BEGINNER CLIMBS AT WA PASS
Silver Star, Silver Star Glacier
4th Class, Glacier, Steep snow
Silver Star is an excellent moderate glacier route with an exposed 4th class scramble to the summit. It is possible to set up a base camp at either Burgundy Col or Bench camp and climb multiple spires in the area.
South Early Winters Spire, South Arete
5.5 4 pitches
This is many peoples first ever alpine climb. The climbing is excellent and friendly and makes for a great training ground.
Concord Spire, South Face
5.6 4 pitches
Quality climbing without any crowds, it would be a rare day to see even one party on this hidden gem. You even get to do an exposed sharks fin traverse!
Liberty Bell, Beckey Route
5.6 4 pitches
Liberty Bell is one of the most iconic summits in America. The Beckey Route is the "standard" route up the peak and offers great climbing up well featured crack systems.
Poster Peak, Blues Buttress
5.6 8 pitches
Poster Peak houses a series of high quality ridge climbs. Blues Buttress is the most trafficked and cleanest line on the peak. It has a bit more of a remote feel than anything in the liberty bell group.
Kangaroo Temple, North Face
5.6 3 pitches
The approach to Kangaroo Temple will only take most parties 1-1.5 hours, but it will feel super adventurous as you pass by tarns and over Kangaroo Pass. The tower itself is an impressive feature that most people wont ever even see!
Cutthroat Peak, North Ridge
5.6 8 pitches
The North Ridge of Cutthroat is has some of the highest quality rock of any ridge climb in the cascades. Its adventurous nature makes for either one large day car to car or two with the opportunity to experience an on route bivy.
Vasiliki Spire, South Face
5.6 2 pitches
Vasiliki sits opposite of Burgundy Spire. The climb is friendly and the view of the wine spires from the summit is unmatched. It is best to link Vasiliki with another route or two with a base camp at bench camp just below.
Chablis Spire, E Face
5.6 4 pitches
Highly adventurous for the grade, Chablis requires a bit of steep snow or ice to approach the base of the route. It is possible to set up a base camp at either Burbundy Col or Bench Camp and climb multiple routes in the area.
INTERMEDIATE CLIMBS AT WA PASS
Lexington Spire, North Face
5.7 3 pitches
The stegosaurus summit ridge of Lexington is a memorable one. The climbing to get there will offer solitude and shelter from the sun on hot days.
Concord Spire, North Face
5.7 3 pitches
Concord is the Pointiest summit in the Liberty Bell group. It rarely has other parties on it, making it a great escape from the crowds.
South Early Winters Spire, SW Rib
5.8 8 pitches
Chris Mac claims that this is the best 5.8 in WA. There are very few who would argue. Every pitch is memorable and offers a wide variety of movement and techniques.
Cutthroat Peak, South Buttress
5.8 8 pitches
Cutthroat is an awesome sentinel rising above the highway opposite of the Liberty Bell group. The South Buttress has consistently good climbing at makes for a very full day car to car.
Burgundy Spire, North Face
5.8 6 pitches
Burgundy Spire is listed on the unofficial list of hardest to reach summits in WA. The North Face is its easiest route.
Paisano Pinnacle, West Ridge
5.8 6 pitches
Excellent climbing, this is generally used as an alternative start to the North Face of Burgundy Spire to make for a very full day of climbing. Most people prefer to spend a night at bench camp right below the climb though it is possible to go car to car in a big day.
ADVANCED CLIMBS AT WA PASS
Liberty Traverse
5.9 20 pitches
This is a long enchainment of the 5 major spires in the Liberty Bell Group. It is possible to climb the traverse at anywhere from 5.7 to 5.11. With 20+ pitches of quality climbing it makes for an epic outing.
North Early Winters Spire, NW Corner
5.9 6 pitches
High quality and burly climbing, definitely a bit of a blue collar route.
Lexington Spire, East Face
5.9 10 pitches
The East face is a classic blue collar test piece. Be prepared for a lot of off width climbing. It's a classic!
Cutthroat Wall, Easy Getaway
5.10- 8 pitches
A newer route characterized by splitters. A good way to escape the crowds.
Whine Spire, Gato Negro
5.10 12 pitches
High up on the west face of Silver Star peak. This route has a distinct alpine character and makes for a massive day. It is also possible to bivy to make it a 2-3 day outing.
Juno Tower, Clean Break
5.10c 15 pitches
Many feel this is the best 5.10 route at WA pass. The climb starts out with a splitter hand and finger crack. Most plan for at least one bivy.
South Early Winters Spire, Direct East Buttress
5.9+ A0 8 pitches
The shape, position and exposure hanging high above the hairpin are not to be forgotten on this one. It goes free at 5.11a, but it is very easy to pull through short crux sections on bolts.
North Early Winters Spire, West Face
5.11a 6 pitches
The yin to the NW corners' yang. The two routes couldn't be more different. The crux is relatively low angle super technical finger crack climbing.
South Early Winters Spire, The Hitchhiker
5.11 9 pitches
Absolute masterpiece of a route. The rock is exquisite, the exposure constant and climbing is memorable.