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“Castle in the Sky” First Ascent of the South Buttress of Whatcom Peak IV 5.10b TD


Joe traversing the challenger glacier with the S buttress in view behind.

Lani and I have been using our friend Kyle as one of our check In people in the front country on personal trips. He is a rational human that understands climbing and good decision making. While we were climbing Mongo, he was unknowingly relaying our progress to Wayne. By the time we got into the front country we already had an invite to dinner to celebrate the climb! Wayne is full of stoke, in an awesome, uncontainable way. I asked him at dinner what the biggest unplucked fruit in the cascades may be. He waffled a bit then suggested the South Buttress of Whatcom Peak as a worthy objective. Trigger some research, and the hook was set. Lani and I had offset schedules for a couple weeks, so I lined up a couple trips into the pickets to prepare for the climb. The weather was exceptionally fruitful and conditions lent themselves to relatively easy passage. The pickets were for once obliging.