GUIDED MULTI-PITCH ROCK CLIMBING IN RED ROCK, NEVADA
Red Rock is famous for its long moderate multi-pitch climbs. Routes like Epinephrine and Crimson Chrysalis turned a global eye to the conservation area. Red Rock has an incredibly storied climbing history, dating back to the early 70's. Many big names travelled through over the years making for a super diverse range of climbs.
We have been climbing here for years and have ticked hundreds of routes in the canyons. We are experts at avoiding crowds. Below is a list of some of the more classic routes in Red Rock. Let us know what your experience is and we can come up with the perfect route for you.
All guides are AMGA Certified Rock Guides.
September - May
Rates are based off of a ratio of the number of climbers to the number of guides. For multi-pitch climbs, the highest ratio that we work at is 2:1. Ratios 3:1 and higher are only available for single pitch climbing. Prices are per person per day
NOTE: This program is offered through an arrangement that we have with the American Alpine Institute. AAI holds the appropriate commercial permitting for this program.
BEGINNER MULTI-PITCH ROUTES IN RED ROCK
Tuna and Chips
5.3 2 pitches
This is an excellent beginner multi pitch climb. Its possible to link in with some other climbing nearby and not unheard of for folks to get up this route on their first day outside!
Calico Peak, Mountaineers Route
5.3 6 pitches
This is a long moderate slab climb that ascends a striking ridge rising out of the second pull out on the Red Rock loop road.
Solar Slab Gully
5.4 5 pitches
The Solar Slab Gully is traditionally used as a way of accessing the upper "Solar Slab" route. The climb itself ascends steep, well featured rock with minimal exposure. It makes for an excellent first multi pitch climb
First Creek Slabs, Romanian Rib
5.5 8 pitches
Romanian Rib is a long, and adventurous moderate deep in first creek canyon. The climbing is never that challenging, but it makes for a fun and very active day in the mountains.
Riding Hood Wall, Physical Graffiti
5.6 3 pitches
One of the best climbs of its grade anywhere. In combination with some instruction, its possible to climb this route on your first day outside.
Mescalito, Cat in the Hat
5.6 6 pitches
Cat ascends the south side of Mescalito, a massive tower back in pine creek canyon. It is a historical route with a long history. Most people descend after the first 6 pitches, those looking for a more advanced and much larger day could look into climbing all the way to the summit of mescalito.
Jackrabbit Buttress, Geronimo
5.6 6 pitches
Geronimo has some of the biggest holds we have ever seen outside. Steep, wild and enjoyable climbing all the way to the summit of a cool tower!
5.6 10 pitches
Our personal favorite 5.6 in Red Rock. There are many options to access the "upper solar slab". Its possible to link the famous "Johnny Vegas" route or the splitter "Beulah's Book". Despite its name, Solar Slab mostly climbs cracks up the center of its namesake feature.
INTERMEDIATE MULTI-PITCH ROUTES IN RED ROCK
5.7 5 pitches
Cookie Monster climbs a variation to the start of Cat in the Hat. The climbing is only slightly harder that the climbing on Cat, making it a solid back up plan in case of crowds.
5.7 6 pitches
Tunnel Vision takes a proud line up the middle of Angel Food wall in White Rock Springs. The climbing follows large corners and cracks and even has a full pitch long tunnel where you climb into the mountain. For more adventure, you can link the awesome route "Sandy Hole" into the tunnel for two full pitches of vertical spelunking.
5.7 4 pitches
Johnny Vegas is commonly used to access Solar Slab. The climbing is steep, and well featured.
5.8 5 pitches
Black Magic is a lesser known gem. Its neighbor "Lotta Balls" gets all the attention, but Black Magic is just as good and rarely sees the crowds of Lotta Balls.
5.8 4 (or 10) pitches
Dark Shadows climbs the North Face of Mescalito. The rock is impeccable dark black varnished rock. Most people rappel off the top of the 4th pitch. For a full day of adventure, we recommend climbing the full 10 pitch route!
5.8 7 pitches
Community Pillar is likely our favorite 5.8 in Red Rock. Every pitch is a unique adventure. You squeeze, chimney and tunnel your way up an adult jungle gym.
5.8 7 pitches
Purblind Pillar one of the newer additions to the angel food wall. The climbing is varied, but can be characterized by a lot more face climbing that its neighboring routes.
5.8 7 pitches
Frogland takes a direct line up the north face of Whiskey Peak. It is one of the first routes in Red Rock to have been climbed and well deserved of its hyper classic status.
5.8 8 pitches
Crimson Chrysalis may be the steepest 5.8 in North America. Steep gym-like jugs take you up the north face of Cloud Tower. It can be super busy, so the nearby Ginger Cracks makes for an excellent plan B.
5.9 6 pitches
Armatron is made famous by its distinctive alligator skin like texture. Excellent varnish on primarily face climbing make for an awesome day climbing to the summit of Juniper Peak. For a very full adventure day, it is possible to link the route Mister Z into Armatron.
5.9 6 pitches
The Ginger Buttress Sits right at the moth of Juniper Canyon. Every morning it gets lit up by alpenglow, making it one of the more distinctive ridge lines in the park. Ginger Cracks climbs the north side of the buttress and follows a continuous and excellent crack system the whole way.
ADVANCED MULTI-PITCH ROUTES IN RED ROCK
Frigid Air Buttress
5.9 7 pitches
Frigid Air Buttress is a long, relatively moderate route of mostly crack climbing. It lies in the middle of Ice Box Canyon and makes for a nice cool day when the temps are soaring in the desert.
5.9 6 pitches
Peyote Power is a lesser known route up the middle of the north face of Mescalito. The route follows mostly varnished plates and well featured face climbing.
5.9 9 pitches
Birdhunter Buttress is a massive adventure climb up the right hand side of the Rainbow Wall. It is the easiest route one of the proudest walls in Red Rock. A big approach and involved approach make for very large day for most parties.
5.9 15 pitches
Epinephrine may be the most famous route in Nevada. People come from all over the world to test themselves on it. The first half of the route follows a glass smooth and continuous chimney system. If you are unfamiliar with chimney technique, we highly recommend a half day of prep to dial in the technique. For this, we usually climb the route "Black Widow Hallow" on Mescalito.
Dream of Wild Turkeys
5.10a 6 pitches
Dream of Wild Turkey is one of the more storied routes in America, and the first route up the imposing Black Velvet Wall. The climbing is highly technical thin face climbing and the rock is superb.
5.10a 10 pitches
Black Orpheus is a very long route up the south face of Rainbow Mountain. The route catches a lot of sun, making it an excellent option when it is cold out. The route tops out in the same place as Solar Slab, but takes a much steeper and exposed line to get there. The crux pitches are splitter cracks.
5.10a 6 pitches
Another excellent route on Black Velvet Wall. It is a little shorter but every bit as good as Dream of Wild Turkeys.
5.10b 4 pitches
Triassic Sands was the first route in Black Velvet Canyon. The route follows a 3 pitch long, perfect hand crack.
5.10c 8 pitches
One of the best multi-pitch sport climbs in North America. Consistently excellent rock and sustained climbing split up by perfect belay ledges.
5.10c A0 16 pitches
If you scan Red Rock in the morning, there is no doubt that you will pick out Resolution Arete. Climbed in the winter in a single push, this route was quite the feat when it was put up. Today, many climbers still struggle to get it done in a single day.
5.10d 12 pitches
Inti Watana is maybe our favorite 5.10d route in Red Rock. It climbs the Aeolian Wall on Mount Wilson and tops out at a distinct tower. The climb is about 1200' long and is mostly moderate and enjoyable face climbing the whole way. For a full on adventure day, it is possible to continue on the last few pitches of Resolution Arete to the summit of Mt Wilson.
5.10d 6 pitches
This route is deep in the south fork of Pine Creek Canyon. It climbs a series of cracks and corners up the north face of Juniper Peak. The climbing is far less featured than much of red rock, making for some challenging and sustained crack climbing.
5.11c 7 pitches
Levitation is probably second only to Epinephrine in fame. People travel from all over the world to test themselves on it. It is south facing and requires relatively cool temperatures to be enjoyable.
5.11d 6 pitches
Probably the best multi-pitch crack climb in Red Rock. The route is mostly perfect hand cracks. The crux pitch is a 4 star thin stemming and finger crack corner.