GUIDED MULTI-PITCH ROCK CLIMBING IN EL POTRERO CHICO, MX
El Potrero Chico is a world class mecca of multi pitch sport climbing. No where else in North America has such a high concentration of high quality multi pitch limestone. The climbs here range short beginner friendly moderates to mega big wall free climbing test pieces. Whatever your level is, Potrero is sure to have a route for you! Below is a list of some of the more classic routes. Let us know what your experience is and we will find the perfect route for you!
All guides are AMGA Certified Rock Guides.
November - March
Rates are based off of a ratio of the number of climbers to the number of guides. For multi-pitch climbs, the highest ratio that we work at is 2:1. Ratios 3:1 and higher are only available for single pitch climbing. Prices are per person per day
BEGINNER MULTI-PITCH ROUTES IN EL POTRERO CHICO
5.9 3 Pitches
This route gains a large Hanging Garden on the left side of the Jungle Wall. A 2 min approach, coupled with fun moderate climbing make for one of the better beginner climbs around.
Remember the Alamo
5.9 3 Pitches
This climb has a bit of a longer approach, so it makes for an excellent option on busier days as a way of avoiding crowds. There is plenty of moderate single pitch cragging nearby to round out the day.
Will the Wolf Survive
5.9 4 Pitches
This climb is a short ways up in El Canyon de los Lobos. It gains an awesome limestone spire, so makes for an awesome adventure. All day shade makes for an awesome option when its hot.
5.10a 3 Pitches
Ramsey's climbs straight out of the pool facility. A distinct summit and short approach make this one of the more popular climbs in the area. With good timing its possible to avoid the crowds and tag this awesome route!
5.10a 4 Pitches
One of the oldest routes in El Potrero, this thing is riddled with history. It climbs the left side of the Jungle Wall and has the classic Jungle Wall roadside approach.
INTERMEDIATE MULTI-PITCH ROUTES IN EL POTRERO CHICO
5.10- 12 Pitches
Estrellita is the most approachable "big" climb in Potrero. Most of the climbing is moderate, with short, approachable cruxes. The climbing goes much faster than most people expect, allowing for plenty of time to nab tacos after the climb!
5.10- 6 Pitches
Dope Ninja climbs the ridge above the Moto Wall. It is one of the first routes in the canyons to catch sun. Its usually best to get on this one early to avoid crowds on the rappels.
5.10b 11 Pitches
Yankee clippers is the easiest "full height" route on the Jungle Wall. Many of the pitches are long, sustained and classic at the grade. It catches sun for most of the day, so its best on cool days or early starts.
5.11a (or 5.10 A0) 8 Pitches
Just beyond the Club Mex wall is a massive drainage with an intimidating water groove. Super Nova climbs this groove at a remarkably moderate grade. The first pitch requires some 5.10 moves, but after that its all moderate cruising to the top of the wall.
5.10c 7 Pitches
Satori has a bit longer of an approach than many routes in potrero. Despite this, its proven to be a relatively popular line. The climbing is excellent and full shade. Its possible to combine with "Off the Couch" for a pretty mega day.
Treasure of the Sierra Madre
5.10c 7 Pitches
One of the better 5.10 routes in potrero, and the crowds will be there to support it! Its best to hit this one super early. Its one of the first things to catch sun in the morning, making a chilly "alpine start" a little more reasonable.
5.10+ 6 Pitches
Pitch Black is probably our favorite 5.10 around. The approach is about 15 min. Only the last pitch of the route gets sun, so its best on warmer days.
ADVANCED MULTI-PITCH ROUTES IN EL POTRERO CHICO
5.10+ 7 Pitches
Similar to its neighbor "treasure", Snott Girlz has become a super popular route. The climbing is excellent and stout.
Off the Couch
5.10d 7 Pitches
Off the Couch is similar to "Satori", with good planning, its possible to combine these routes.
5.10d 11 Pitches
Space Boyz might be the most popular route on the Jungle Wall. It takes the proudest and most direct line up the middle of the wall. It is incredibly popular and often justifies and early start to beat the crowds.
Black Cat Bone
5.10d 9 Pitches
Black Cat Bone climbs the right side of the Jungle Wall. It is just as high quality as its neighbors, but without the crowds.
Time Wave Zero
5.10+ A0 23 Pitches
If you've been scrolling this list, this is likely the route that you've been looking for. Its one of the biggest sport climbs in North America. The climbing is mostly moderate and is consistently good the whole way. It climbs 2300' to the south summit of El Toro.