GUIDED TOWER CLIMBING MOAB
The canyonlands of Moab are home to some of the coolest sandstone towers in the world. There are hundreds of towers and thousands of routes in the Colorado Plateau. These are some of the most insane and unique summits you will ever lay your eyes on, let alone stand on top of. We are happy to join you for a tower climb, whether its your first ever desert tower or 20th!
All guides are AMGA Certified Rock Guides
Rates are based off of a ratio of the number of climbers to the number of guides. For multi-pitch climbs, the highest ratio that we work at is 2:1. Ratios 3:1 and higher are only available for single pitch climbing. Prices are per person per day
BEGINNER TOWER CLIMBS
Ancient Art, Stolen Chimney
5.8 A0, 4 Pitches
Nestled in the heart of the fisher towers, Ancient Art is one of the most iconic summits in the world. The summit is insane. The climbing is varied, including a long, featured chimney and a summit pitch that feels like your sport climbing in a scene only Dr. Seuss could dream up. There are short sections where most people easily pull or "french free" on a few bolts to keep the grade at an approachable 5.8. No previous aid climbing experience is necessary. It is possible to free these sections at 5.11a.
INTERMEDIATE TOWER CLIMBS
Castleton Tower, North Chimney
5.9 4 pitches
Castleton tower is massive. It holds a commanding presence in the center of Castle Valley. It has an extremely long history and pedigree amongst desert climbers as a "right of passage". Our preferred route to the summit is via the classic North Chimney route. The route actually faces east and thus catches morning sun and afternoon shade. While the route climbs a large chimney feature, much of the climbing follows steep hand cracks and short sections of off-width climbing. If requested, we can climb the famous Kor-Ingalls route. The Kor Ingalls is a 50 classics route and is extremally polished as a result, even still, it is a physical test piece route that will help prepare you for harder things in the desert.
Abraxis Tower, Standard Route
Kane Springs Canyon
5.10- 2 pitches
Abraxis tower is a narrowly detached, bird like sentinel in Kane Springs Canyon. You park at the trailhead for the Amasa Back trail, this is also the same trail that accesses the famous Hymasa and Captain Ahab mountain biking trails. From there it is a short jaunt across the valley to the base of the route. The route is characterized by high quality straight in crack climbing. The second pitch is a classic and approachable desert chimney that is great practice for harder or more committing routes. As this is a shorter route, it is best combined with some cragging at the base of the wall to make for an excellent and rounded day of crack technique practice. If you are new to the desert and wanting to climb some of the harder routes around, we really recommend this itinerary as prep.
Light House Tower, Lonely Vigil
5.10 4 pitches
Light House Tower stands directly above the famous Big Bend Bouldering area. The Climbing is steep and wild. Perfect hand cracks and steep thuggy jug throwing best describe the route. The summit is almost as narrow and exposed as the summit of Ancient Art. If you enjoyed Ancient Art and are looking for a step up in climbing difficulty then this may be the tower for you.
Crooked Arrow Spire, Longbow Chimney
5.8 C1 3 pitches
The Crooked Arrow Spire hangs precariously off the east face of Parriott Mesa in Castle Valley. The first half of the route is a deep exploration where you tunnel nearly 100 ft into the back of the mesa and climb a long, sustained 3-D chimney system. The last pitch is a steep exposed bolt ladder up a blank face on the tower. You must have some experience with rope ascension techniques prior to climbing this route. We are happy to schedule a half day of prep day for folks who are interested.
ADVANCED TOWER CLIMBS
North Six Shooter, Lightning Bolt Cracks
5.11- 3 pitches
Steep Splitter cracks, crazy roofs and off-widths. Lightening bolt cracks is a classic representation of the harder tower climbs in the desert.
Castleton Tower, North Face
5.11a 4 pitches
The North Face of Castleton tower is one of the best multi-pitch crack climbs in the American West. Steep, sustained and SPLITTER! Every pitch features a different size of crack, from thin hands to off-widths. This route gets very little sun and is best reserved for warmer days.
The Rectory, Fine Jade
5.11a 4 pitches
While the Rectory is more of a mesa than a tower, there's no denying that Fine Jade feels just as exposed and radical as any other tower route around. Fine Jade climbs the narrow and exposed south face of the Rectory.
The Priest, Honeymoon Chimney
5.11a (or 5.10 A0) 4 pitches
The Priest might be the coolest tower in Castle Valley. From certain angles, it looks exactly like a priest standing at an altar. The Honeymoon Chimney climbs a central crack that separates the priest from his altar. The crack starts as a fist crack and gradually widens to an absolutely insane full body bridge before stepping onto the main tower. The crux can very easily be pulled through by grabbing a couple quickdraws, making this climb surprisingly approachable for those familiar with 5.10 off-width climbing.
Kingfisher, Colorado NE Ridge
5.8 C2 6 pitches
The Kingfisher likely has the best views in the fisher towers. Pulling dramatically onto its summit reveals and expansive Richardson Amphitheater. The Colorado Ridge climbs the left skyline of Kingfisher as viewed from the parking area. The route has two pitches of 5.8 free climbing mixed in with 4 pitches of aid. The ridge is as thin as a knife's edge and at times tapers to only a foot wide. You must have experience with aid climbing and rope ascension for this climb. Contact us to schedule a prep day. We can also add this climb as a final objective to our 4 day big wall and aid course!!
The Titan, Finger of Fate
5.9 C2+ 8 pitches
The Titan is the tallest free standing tower in North America. On its shortest side it stands about 700ft tall. The finger of fate is one of Steck and Ropers 50 classic climbs and certainly deserves that status. The climbing is almost all aid climbing. The rock is super soft and the aid is quite tricky. We expect folks to have a fair amount of experience with aid climbing and rope ascension before considering this climb. Contact us to figure out if this is the right climb for you.